Bringing Home a Second Dog

Bringing a second dog home requires a lot of thought. It means a complete change in your "normal" family routine. It matters not whether the new dog is a puppy or an adult.

There are many things to consider before you bring the new pet home.

It is not just a matter of bringing the new dog home and you all will live happily ever after (though that can be a remote possibility.)

You need to take time to think this new undertaking through and mull over these questions:
Are you living on a tight budget? A second dog will require annual vet visits, will need food, toys, perhaps a new crate and possible training classes.

A second dog requires "time." Do you have extra time to play, for walks, time to groom your pet, time for feeding, training and extra clean up?

Does your current dog have any behavioral problems? A
new dog might not be able to teach your old dog to stop misbehaving. You could end up with two dogs each with bad behaviors, making matters worse.

Do you have the patience to adhere to "dog pack' rules? Even though you are the LEADER, two dogs are a pack and one or the other will become the second leader. If it's the new dog, can you adjust to following the rules? The leader dog gets to be "first" in all things and you cannot change that. Trying to change what is natural dog behavior will cause conflict and "big trouble."

Are you prepared for the resident dog to start misbehaving, such as using the house as a potty place, chewing things and just being destructive in general? The newcomer may upset your pet.

Is your current dog friendly with other dogs and people? If your resident dog is a "bully," your chances of finding a "friend" for him/her are slim. Training classes for your current dog maybe the answer before you plunge into getting another dog.

How is the stress level in your household? Have you moved, added a new family member or has anything else happened to upset the normal routine of the household? Dogs stress out during changes in their routine. Times of stress are not a good time to bring home a new dog.

Are you happy with your dog right now? A second dog could bring changes in your dog's personality. The two dogs could really bond
and might prefer being together, ignoring you, except for food and treats. Are you ready to accept that?

Read these questions a few times and answer them truthfully. Being truthful will help eliminate you making a mistake.

Some dogs really don't want a "companion," they are as happy as a clam being the "only dog."

The real question here is "is it you that wants a new dog?"

Once you have made up your mind and truly feel that another dog will be an added benefit to your household. There are a few more things to consider such as: puppy, young adult or an older dog. That will depend on your resident dog.

Puppies are probably easier to introduce to your current dog, as a puppy doesn't appear as an intruder, only as a pest.

If you decide on a puppy, please keep this in mind. Puppies do not realize they are supposed to behave in a certain way until they are about 4 months old.

Until they are old enough to know all this "dog stuff," it will be up to you to protect the puppy from the older dog and protect the older dog from the puppy.

The puppy will drive the older dog crazy at times. Puppies want to play; older dogs will play for a little while then want to stop.

It is up to you to give your older pet, free time away from "fluff and stuff."

Do not under any circumstances leave the puppy and older dog alone without supervision.

Always put the puppy in its crate or put your resident dog in a safe room if you are leaving the house or cannot supervise.

The older dog could unintentionally injure the puppy, if the puppy pesters the older dog too much.

Adding a young adult dog or an older dog to your household requires a lot more tact along with patience and planning. You are going to need help with this one.

Step number one; the dogs will have to meet on neutral ground. To do this you will need help of a friend or a relative (not a member of your household.)

The dogs need to meet in a place your dog has never been, that will be the neutral territory. It can be a park, a neighbor's yard, or if all else fails a parking lot.

Both dogs need to be on a leash and introduced casually. Allow them to do all the "doggy things," such as smelling each other, their stance may be rigid, but for the first meeting that is okay. However, if you hear growling or see lip curling, calmly move them apart.

Remain calm and do not be nervous, talk to the dogs in a "happy voice."

After a few minutes try to introduce them again, but do not let them get too close together.

If the growling and lip curling happens again it is a good bet that these two will not ever be friends.

Whatever you do, do not try to force a friendship. You will only be looking for a great deal of trouble when you get them home.

Dogs will fight and if they do not like each other, it can be disastrous for you and the dogs.

In looking for a new dog (not a puppy) try to find a dog whose personality matches that of your dog. If your dog is outgoing and friendly, find one that is equally so. If your dog is quiet and gentle, do not bring home a dog that is very active and playful, the match more than likely will not work.

Female dogs that have been the only dog in the house seem to have a harder time adjusting to a new "friend."

Dogs that have been socialized and get along well with other dogs have an easier time relating to a new dog in the household.

One of the first rules in raising a puppy is "socialize, socialize and socialize" some more. If you have followed that rule, adding a new dog should be easier.

Once the introductions have been made and it is time to bring the two dogs home a good suggestion is "do not bring them home together" in the same car. Let the person who helped you with the introduction bring the new dog home.

It is a suggested procedure that when you have both dogs at home you keep their leashes on them. It will be easier for you to keep control if you need to by having a leash to grab on to.

If the new dog is close in age to your resident dog there is bound to be a bit of aggression going on.

You now have a "pack," it will be necessary for the two dogs to decide which one is going to be second in charge (you are the real leader) and this decision may take some haggling.

Acceptable aggressive behavior should last for a few seconds (10 --20 seconds) and may consist of some growling, lip curling, snarling, snapping and possibly pinning one of the dogs down by the neck.

Unacceptable aggressive behavior would be biting to draw blood or any of the above behaviors that last more than a few seconds.

One of the dogs may exhibit submissive behavior and this is to be expected also. Barking like a puppy, rolling over on its back, tail between its legs, running away from the other dog are all acceptable submissive behaviors.

It may take the dogs a week or two to settle on who is the leader and while that is going on DO NOT let them alone together unsupervised.

Put the dogs in separate areas or in their crates, do not let them be together until you are certain they have settled their ranking and will get along.

The hardest thing for you will be following their decision especially if your first dog is no longer the "number one."

The important thing here is that you abide by their decision no matter how hard it will be for you.

The number one dog gets the first treats, is first out the door, is first to be fed and so on.

Speaking of feeding, give each dog their own bowls and their own eating spot, do not let one steal food from the other.

Expect your first dog to go through some stress and probably some misbehavior patterns as this new addition will be upsetting to it and the dog will need to adjust.

It is up to you to expect these problems and act accordingly. Remember your dog did not ask for a new friend. It was your idea. As the old saying goes "you made your bed now lie in it."

It may take a month or more for a routine to establish and peace to rein supreme once again in your household. If you keep the dogs apart when you are not home to supervise and you make the time they spend together "fun" they will soon become friends, maybe not "best friends," but close enough to enjoy being together.

Do not forget that you are the LEADER, the boss supreme, and you run the show, and both dogs need to follow your orders first.

Do not beat, hit or otherwise use force to make a point, be patient, stern if necessary and most of all CONSISTENT in what you are asking of the dogs.

One last point: exercise is the secret to keeping your dogs too tired to argue with each other. Exercise relieves their stress (and maybe yours. too) and tired dogs behave better.

Good luck and remember to have FUN.

Fearful Timid and Anxious Dogs

Socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations. By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive in later life,
(FACT) "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related".

Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don't supply it ask why?

Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog's ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.

Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start "the abuse started at four months old" he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.

Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding.
Not money or accolades!

Don't expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.

The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.

You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.

Distance Learning

To gain and improve a dog's confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog's new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let's say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog's body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.

Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog's state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.

Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.

Play or Training Therapy

There is an exception to this, if the dog has been recently frightened say by fireworks, you can actually act very blasé and go immediately outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential problem immediately.

Why this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits a lot of turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.

Focused Attention

One way of getting your dog to overcome certain fear situations is to gain the dog's attention with treats, toys or your voice as you walk past whatever is causing the problem.

This has a similar effect as using distance because the dog is thinking about something else instead. Therefore the intensity of the fear is reduced.

You will need treats or toys for this method I recommend either cheese, liver, or puffed jerky, do not use treats to lure dogs keep them out of sight till required. Sit next to the dog and call its name, it is even better if you can get a partner or friend to help on the other side, sit the dog between you and your partner or friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically or play or use a toy, get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life, and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned. Never use the dogs name in a negative situation, ie do not scold or punish using his/her name. Once you have got the dog to acknowledge his name then start these exercises:

To start focused attention say the dogs name and move immediately away from the dog when he moves towards and with you PRAISE and TREAT/PLAY immediately you can use a clicker for the praise or a target word, I use the word "good" in these circumstances. Remember to not show the treat until you are ready to give it or it will become part of the command.

When you give the treat try and align it between both yours and the dog's eyes this will make sure you are making good eye contact after a while you will see the dog making eye contact regularly you can treat this action at this time so as to embed it. Do these sequences at least 4 times in a row, ie name/move/praise/treat. The repetition is what teaches the dog to maintain that attention until you give the release command. The release command can be OK or whatever you choose to use. Practice this everywhere you go including training classes.

What you are looking for by performing these exercises is to tune out outside influences including the ones that are causing a fear or aggressive response. Once you can comfortably perform this exercise use it to move gradually ever closer to the problem you are trying to overcome. Over time you can momentarily release the dogs attention, increase this as you would using the distance technique, if you get a fear response then you have moved too far too fast. And you must go back to where the dog last felt comfortable.

Punishment is not an Option

It is of no use whatsoever punishing the dog for its fearful actions, this only causes more stress and therefore more fearful behaviour, therefore in the case of interdog aggression even more defensive behaviour, remember the dog had really only three choices when confronted with a fearful situation these are commonly listed as the three Fs. Freeze, Flight or Fight. If the first two are found not to work the third one kicks in.
Let's take the vacuum cleaner as an example. If you had watched your pup from the first time it was confronted by this "demon of the dark abyss" he would more than likely have crouched down as low as possible his body rigid, if the noise and the monster continued the puppy would have run away, probably under a table or a chair and if it came closer it would have growled and snarled probably making darting and biting motions especially when you playfully pushed the Hoover closer to see the pups reaction. Anything ring a bell?

Some pups will be SO traumatised by the noise and the movement of the cleaner that they go into total freeze mode, our initial instinct would be to pick up and cuddle and comfort the frightened puppy. Perfectly natural human behaviour, something is frightened then nurture it. Unfortunately to a dogs mind this indicates that it is being praised for the fear, confirming his need to be fearful. If this happens when to pup is between 8 to 11.5 week old, which is the first of several fear periods throughout the dog's life, then that fear could be so deep rooted as to be almost impossible to eradicate completely.
Obedience Classes?

Some dogs that are fearful or timid may benefit from a training class especially one that uses positive methods. I, the case of a rescue dog or any adult dog that you have rehomed, I would wait at least six weeks before embarking on this method. Some very fearful dogs may be too nervous for class work until you've done some remedial work first. A private trainer or behaviourist should be able to help structure a positive approach to build up confidence in your dog, and also help determine when the dog is capable of class work.

Do not make your dog jump into the deep end at classes or you can go undo all the good work so far. Initially keep the dog on the outer edge of the class and at a distance from anything the dog fears. If you've developed focused attention before starting class, then this will be extremely useful for helping the dog relax in these situations. Some dogs may need several visits starting with very short periods at a time before actually participating in the classes. Unfortunately some dogs may never be able to function well enough for this type of remedial work.
If the dog has any tendency to snap at dogs or people or to bark inappropriately, a head Halter or Halti can be an excellent safeguard that helps to eliminate this habit without introducing new problems. Have a trainer or behaviour specialist help you fit the halter/halti. Use your focused attention exercise to keep the dog's mind off the Halter/Halti. Be sure to remove the head halter at all times except when you are actively working the dog. Don't use a long line with a head halter, because you could put a dangerous amount of force against the neck.
What Other Treatments Could Help?

Change of Diet: A good quality food helps in many cases, most cheap food has cereal as filler, this can lead to a lack of serotonin, and low serotonin has been linked to aggression and anxiety. Feeding a good quality dog food has other benefits, it need not be more expensive as you do not require as much to get the same calorific intake, so it works out good value for money, but more importantly you are giving your dog a scientifically developed formula that is best for him or her. The nervous dog who eats a food overly-high in protein or sugar can experience even higher levels of anxiety. Therefore consider switching to a food with slightly lower protein levels.

To check on the level of protein of your dog's food, look on the back or side of the dog food bag or can, where the percentage of protein will be listed. Levels usually vary from 14% (for aged dogs) all the way up to 25% (for puppies and working dogs). I am not a fan of canned food I find a quality dry all in one food is a much better option ,especially with the fearful phobic dog

If a nervous, hyper dog eats food with protein levels at around 22%, for example, consider trying a food with 18-20% protein. Doing so may help calm him down. If done in conjunction with regular exercise and desensitisation program.

These are a number of homeopathic and mainstream drugs that can be used in situations of stress, fear, aggression, barking, and noise aversion etc;

o Dr Bach's Flower Remedies: They are made from wild flowers. These gentle remedies are used to help relieve emotional and stress related disturbances in people and animals. The most common one used is Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy
Available Chemist, health food shop or internet

o Skullcap and Valerian: A traditional herbal remedy for the symptomatic relief of anxiety, nervousness, excitability and travel sickness, and an adjunct in the treatment of epilepsy in dogs and cats. Normally supplied in a sugar coated tablet, it helps to calm and relax dogs and cats suffering from, apprehension, phobias or hyperactivity.
Available Chemist, health food shop or internet

o D.A.P Diffusers: In mammals all lactating females release substances which are called appeasing pheromones, the function is to reassure and calm their offspring, In the bitch these are produced 3-5 days post whelping by the sebaceous glands of the belly near the milk glands.

They are believed to enhance attachment between mother and pups and to reassure and comfort. As the pup explores its new environment it will come across new stimuli which set off emotional reactions and stresses.

The pup reacts by looking for mum with her reassuring odour which stabilises its emotional state. Research has shown that these reassuring properties last well into adulthood. They appear to modulate both emotional state and social interaction throughout the dog's life. The DAP Diffuser standing for Dog Appeasing Pheromone Diffuser is a chemical mimic of the mothers natural pheromone and is supplied in spray and plug in varieties. I prefer the plug in as it has a culminative effect constantly seeding the area with calming smells.
Available Vet or Internet or Me

o Anxiety: Promotes a sense of calm in animals exhibiting fretting, fear, anxiety or any unwanted behaviour caused by: thunderstorms, fireworks, travel, being left alone, vet and grooming visits. 100% natural organic non-sedating liquid. Safe for cats, kittens, dogs, puppies, birds, rabbits, and ferrets.

Dosage: Once in the morning, evening and bedtime, into mouth or in water. Under 20 lbs.: 5 drops, 20-100 lbs.:10 drops, over 100 lbs.:15 drops. Reduce dosage with improvement, repeat with flare up.

o Prozac: Mainstream controlled drug and only available from your Veterinarian. Originally developed for humans, the controversial antidepressant is now being prescribed by veterinarians for dogs suffering from a variety of emotional disorders.

This is sometimes used in cases of depression, aggression panic attacks and serious phobic responses. The drug is believed to work in the same way as it does in humans by altering the uptake of the brain chemical serotonin. Scientists hope the drug will cut the number of dog attacks and lead to fewer animals being destroyed, normally used with a tapering program of drug treatment
Available Vet only

With all the above it is always prudent to discuss any medication homeopathic or otherwise with your Vet before embarking on any treatment program

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions

Private Dog Parks: Can Be The Safe Choice

With an increasing number of serious incidents being reported at dog parks, I want to introduce the safe alternative that a well-run private dog park can provide. You will find that a properly designed and managed private dog park is a dramatically different experience than what you have read about or have witnessed in public parks. A privately run dog park can properly screen, staff and enforce park regulations. We do caution you that even with the information you will gain from this article, please know that any dog park is not regulated, so we encourage everyone to do their homework before visiting any dog park to ensure it is right for you and your dog.

The current trend is that community and homeowner associations are responding to community demand by setting aside a small plot of their land for a public dog park. Unfortunately these unmanaged and unregulated fenced areas often turn to that of neighbor confrontation, injury and horror, even with the best of intending groups and dog owners. Let's face it, without any oversight or enforcement, incidents are going to occur. Because I recognized the dangers in dog parks to the point that I would not take my dogs to one, I was motivated to devise the complex recipe for a safe off-leash dog park. Therefore; I conducted an in-depth investigation of many existing dog parks to establish the precise formula needed to create an off-leash haven.

I visited many, talked with visiting dog owners and observed many dog parks, both private and public. From my investigative travels and with my inherent understanding of dogs, I developed the complex operating matrix for a safe, off-leash dog park. Since that design work, we have successfully opened the first of our many private dog parks that thousands of qualifying dogs and their owners have already enjoyed. Our safety performance at the Royal Paws Dog Park & Doggie Day Camp facility speaks for itself with an impeccable safety performance and industry leading staffing ratio.

Benefits to your Dog with Off-Leash Exercise

The benefits to a dog at an off-leash dog park or any open area of land are immense. Unleashed running elevates heart rate, increases metabolism, improves gastrointestinal efficiency, and extends muscles and joints, all of which contributes to general overall fitness. It is known that maintaining such a healthy lifestyle for your loved dog will increase longevity and reduce risk of all associated conditions and diseases that obesity can cause. The experience for your dog in open field run is like no leashed exercise we can otherwise provide and the benefits will last a lifetime. When letting your dog run in an open field for exercise value, please consider that there are many risks to both you and your dog. You may be violating leash laws, the dog can track a scent or get lost, run into traffic or unwelcome neighborhood area, confront aggressive dogs or dangerous wildlife or foliage; which are all of the reasons as why I do not take my dogs to any open land without fences despite their excellent obedience.

In fenced area designated as a dog park, in addition to fitness improvement, your dog can enjoy benefits from the social interaction with the other dogs IF experienced without incident. The advantage for a dog that is well exercised and socialized benefit the dog, the owner and the community ONLY IF they have somehow avoided traumatic incident. Well exercised and socialized dogs are much less likely to contribute to neighborhood nuisances like chronic barking or showing aggression to other dogs.

If public parks could operate as well-run private dog park do, these benefits would be maintained. Unfortunately, many dog parks are not continuously regulated nor do they have the resources or knowledge to accurately screen the dogs; therefore, odds are that incidents will occur. Incidents like your dog being attacked by another dog or even being bullied by another dog can cause regression in social skills, cause behavioral issues, invoke fear aggression or cause physical injury or death. Following any incident at a public park, without a safe and regulated choice of private dog park that can best create positive experiences to overcome the impact of the incident, your dog may never physically or emotionally recover from the past trauma. The likelihood of good experiences for your dog in a well-managed private dog park is the reason that many loved dog owners everywhere chose private over non-regulated public parks.

Premise of a Safe Dog Park - It's Private

The advantages a private dog park has over any public dog park is the ability to secure more favorable, larger parcels of land, improved grounds maintenance, set dog health requirements, enforceable park rules, screening of appropriate tempered dogs and third party intervention. Beware though and do your homework about any private dog park you intend to visit. Just because they can do all of the above does not mean that they do! While it is integral that the private dog park has the ability to control all of the above to make visits to a well-managed private dog park enjoyable, the most important to me are the health and temperament screening and ability of park staff to intervene.

If you have read the actual details in the recent headline grabbing horror stories of incidents in dog parks, they almost always are a result from a dog being in the park that should not be or from uneducated/erroneous decisions made by visiting dog owners. Both of these should not occur if your private dog park is consistent in managing and operating the facility for the safety and enjoyment of all. With private dog parks operating as a business, financial success is always a consideration. So turning away visiting dogs equates to lost revenue, so unless the park is focused exclusively on maintaining a safe environment for all, a private park that is short-term financially driven can pose the same risks that a public park does.

The third party oversight ability of park staff to intervene is required to eliminate personality clashes and biased evaluation of situations and/or dog's behavior. So when the experienced screener determines the dog lacks the temperament so he/she can play with others, it is the park staff's responsibility to deal with the disappointed dog owner. Same intervention by park staff goes in the event a visiting dog owner does not abide by park rules or a dog plays too rough or violations of any other park code of behavior. You can imagine these discussions are difficult; however, by park staff entertaining such discussions it eliminates any personal intervention by visiting dog owners.

Telling a dog owner that their dog is not allowed or can no longer come to the park until troublesome behavior is removed is always difficult. However, it is critical that the staff of the private dog park you are intending to visit has the proper screening system, the diligence to comply and financial ability to effectively turn away the revenue for dogs that do not appear to be capable of socially interacting at such level to keep the park safe for all.

As important to the screening is the park's development and maintenance of expertly developed park rules. To the novice dog owner, many of the park rules appear to be too cumbersome and detailed. The reality is that each rule of a well-run dog park is well thought through and derived from merit by an expert in dog behavior. Compliance to all of the rules is key to the safe enjoyment of the park by all. For example, the toy aggression of a dog or rough play can within seconds turn into a dog fight even with the best of mannered & socialized dogs. Without such detailed rules and the full oversight to insure they are all followed, the private dog park could turn into mayhem.

Dog Park Management of Sizes and Breeds

For the safety of all, we highly recommend separating small dogs from large, excluding entrance to a few breeds, requiring males be neutered unless under strict command and requiring that dogs be at least four months old to enjoy the park. What we hear the most from small dog owners is that they want their small dogs to be able to play in the designated big dog area because "they like to play with big dogs". Although the small dogs may have enjoyed past experiences playing with a large dog of neighbor or friend, the risk remain of physical injury to the small dogs if they are allowed in the same area as big dogs. It is my opinion each size should have designated areas to create safe play for all. Thus, we recommend that when investigating which dog park is right for you, this should be part of consistent operations.

Let me first say I do not believe in stereotyping any particular breed for temperament. However, due to instinctual drive levels, size and bite capacity, there are some breeds that I believe should be prohibited from entry to an off-leash park and some that should have elevated entrance criteria. Pit bulls, not specifically because of temperament but rather from jaw force/releasability should be forbidden from the off-leash dog park. Although we have met some of the sweetest and well-socialized pit bulls, we do not allow them to visit our parks because the risk is so high of severe injury to another dog if they were to bite.

Chow Chows are another breed that unless have a lifetime of scalability or coming in as a young dog, do we rarely let into the park. Any of the other "working breed" dogs, including terriers, due to their breed characteristics, prey drive, protection dog status and/or sheer size should go through elevated entrance criteria. These types of dogs must meet entrance-required temperament, in addition must demonstrate clear owner command. Upon meeting entrance criteria, they undergo frequent evaluations for continued social ability and owner command. All other dogs must pass dog socialization evaluation and demonstrate basic obedience.

Many Responsibilities of the Dog Owner

Even with the best of run private dog parks, the dog owners retain a high level of responsibility upon park entrance while be willing to withstand the occasional park staff directive. They must carefully watch their dog, abide by all park rules, maintain the obedience skills of the dog and know their dog well enough to predict their dog's behavior. Knowing your dog's mood, watching it's posture and identifying or correcting any potential troublesome behaviors is critical so all can enjoy the park. Every dog will encounter occasions where they will meet another dog that they do not like or are uncomfortable around.

It is the best of private dog parks where entry requires command of your dog so that incidents of escalated aggression can be avoided when each dog owner carefully watches their dog and can command their dogs away from each and every situation. Incidents occur only when the dog owners are not vigilant in watching their dogs or do not understand their dog's behavior and the slightest of uncomfortable encounters prolongs to escalate into a dogfight. Again, each dog owner should understand their dog's postures, expressions and movement to be able to differentiate in off-leash situations when they are comfortable and when they are not. If the dog owner does not intuitively understand their dog, we recommend seeking the assistance of a professional dog trainer.

Safely Socializing Dogs Early Benefits Everyone

We believe that all dogs, when in receipt of proper health vaccination should be socialized in a safe environment to improve their ability throughout their life of all of the benefits an off-leash park can provide. Any puppy, following final adult vaccination booster should be introduced socially to other dogs, people, children and other distractions and a well-managed private dog park creates the perfect place. Puppies visiting a safe off-leash park will easily learn good behavior in the dog social structure and provide the dog owner the ability to enhance obedience training with distractions. Just as the benefits of teaching good manners to a dog early in their life are immense, so are the risks that behavior issues or dog aggression will occur in the event the early experiences are traumatic.

With puppies, we strongly encourage you thorough investigation on the park you are considering to take them to best create the opportunity for good experiences. We recommend you confirm that the park is well maintained, strictly managed and rules enforced. Taking the puppy to a private off-leash dog park will provide your dog a life-long of comfort around other dogs, people and children. However; even with the best of private dog parks, there are other distractions that you should have your puppy comfortable with, which is why we also recommend taking a puppy (when fully vaccinated) to busy shopping malls with diverse people and sounds, nature walks with children & bicycles and on-leash dog walking trails to learn on-leash manners.

Picking the Private Dog Park for You

While private dog parks are gaining in popularity because they may be the only choice for safe and enjoyable off-leash fun, enter with caution. If a dog park is "Private", it is operated as a business entity, but this does not guarantee it is safe for you and your dog. It is our recommendation that with any place you intend to take your dog, you first tour the facility. Inspect the fence and the grounds, as well as talk with some of the dog owners visiting to learn about their safety record and staffing. After touring, talk with the park staff about what is required to visit. If you do not have to show paperwork confirming vaccinations or they do not meet your dog and determine social ability with other dogs, we would recommend that you know there may be risks. As with any place that you take your dog, insure you have great command of your dog and you are comfortable with the park layout and your dog's social skills to lessen the chances of a possible incident with another dog.

Terri Malueg-Ray, President & Founder of many industry leading, innovative companies who is an international pet industry expert.

Terri L. Malueg-Ray is President and Founder of six-year-old company, Royal Paws Resort & Day SpaÔ, Ltd., one-year old company Royal Pawsä Dog Park, LLC and founding partner of My Owner Has Gone To Heaven, LLC. Terri is known throughout the pet industry as a true innovator. She has created many premier products and services and most recently introduced her new line of gourmet pet meals, called Pet TastiesÔ. Terri’s background in engineering, chemistry and computer science provides her the ability to develop, design and execute the creation of Pet Tastiesä, the only complete line of healthy, yet tasty brand of gourmet pet meals available in the market today. Following the design of Pet Tastiesä, Terri utilized her leadership background to open the first pet restaurant in the Atlanta metro area and has made headlines nationwide. Most notably, on the reality hit TV show, Ambush Makeover, The Montel Williams Show, CNN, Jezebel Magazine, Atlanta Magazine.